Tokiwagi

Just a short walk from Kishibojinmae tram stop on the Tokyo Sakura Tram (Toden Arakawa Line), Tokiwagi makes an inviting stop during a walk through Zoshigaya. Founded in Taisho 8, the confectionery shop has long been beloved for its signature treat, Kosodate Monaka, inspired by the neighborhood's Kishibojin deity. Shaped like a susuki mimizuku (traditional grass owl amulet), the fragrant wafer shell is filled to the very edges with elegantly sweet tsubuan (coarse sweet red bean paste), letting the pure flavor of the azuki beans shine through.

Alongside the monaka, the thick dorayaki pancake sandwich commands a dedicated following. Branded with an oni (demon) stamp, the fluffy sponge cake encases textured sweet bean paste with distinct whole beans, sure to delight any fan of traditional sweets. For an easy snack after walking around the neighborhood, an ice monaka served with ogura sweet bean paste can also be enjoyed on the spot.

The shop display also features a rotation of seasonal confections, from steamed kintsuba with chestnuts and steamed kuri-yokan to kusamochi, kuzumochi, and kashiwamochi, offering a taste of each passing time of year. Packed into dedicated paper bags, they serve reliably well whether for quiet tea at home or as thoughtful souvenirs and gifts.